“At first, just one, a glossy
purple clot
Among others, red, green, hard as
a knot…
…Leaving stains
upon the tongue and lust for
picking.”
Dear old Seamus Heaney had late summer bang-to-rights when
it came to blackberries, and I’ve delighted in watching my eldest daughter
tottering around inky fingered and crimson mouthed, foraging food for free. In
my aspirational head it’s all so very kids’ section of the Boden catalogue, but
in fact it’s M & Co down the passageway by Shropshire Building Supplies. I
don’t mind revealing where we get our blackberries, because by the time you
read this Bea and I will have had the lot of ‘em.
For me, blackberry picking is the very apotheosis of the childhood
idyll, along with climbing trees, throwing sticks at conker trees, and
attempting to buy rude magazines from petrol stations. The “lust for picking”
however, is a thrill that I wish to instil in my children much in the same way
it was passed on to me. I remember as a small boy at prep school taking unripe
apples from a tree that was very much out of bounds, eating the lot of them and
soiling myself within twelve hours. Those were the days.
Foraging is currently the Big Thing. Historically, foraging
was a bit of a necessity because peasants didn’t have Tesco. Now it’s
unnecessary but cool. And actually grubbing around for food from the verges
(one reader recently warned against this – fie to them I say) and fields is
jolly good fun, remarkably rewarding, totally free and often legal. My lovely
friend Liz, based down the road in the Golden Valley is a full-time forager and
furtles around in hedgerows turning her pickings into the most wonderful edible
lotions and potions: www.foragefinefoods.co.uk
As much as I love a scrumped apple or a blagged blackberry,
fungi is where the fun guys (geddit?) forage. My old Dad was something of the
amateur mycologist and would often take himself off to ******* Common or *****
Hill (serious ‘shroomers never reveal their hunting grounds) armed with a small
knife, a basket and Roger Phillips’ seminal book, Mushrooms and Other Fungi of
Great Britain. I would accompany him from time to time in the woods, always on
the search for the elusive boletus edulis, the penny bun, the cep. On
our way to the hunting grounds we would find field mushrooms and puffballs to
take back for lunch. It was only ever when Dad was foraging on his own that
he’d find a cep that was always “eaten by slugs and not worth bringing home.”
Next week, a preview of the beautiful beast that is the
Ludlow Food Festival. In the meantime, happy foraging!
Moments before filing this piece I heard on the news that
Seamus Heaney died today (30th August 2013). I dedicate this week’s
column to the memory of Heaney, one of the greatest wordsmiths of the modern
era.
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