Here I go with another column in arrears. Deficit
journalism. It was Shrove Tuesday last week and I completely forgot about it. I
couldn’t give a flipping toss (see what I’ve done there?) about pancakes.
Anyway, forgot about it I did, until I got home last Tuesday evening to find my
little girls smearing pancakes loaded with chocolate spread all over their
pretty little faces.
This kind of defies the whole idea of Shrove Tuesday: use up
all the eggs, flour and milk in your house and subsist on dust and gravel until
Easter Sunday. You’ve been a bad person. Lent it out. But don’t go buying a jar
of Nutella. It will not admonish you from sin. I told that to my wife, who was
pretty ambivalent.
When I was small we went on family holidays to Brittany in
the north of France, every year for quite a long time. We’d take the ferry to
St Marlo from Portsmouth and Mum, Dad, my sister Tilly and me would all bundle
into a tiny cabin. Once across the Channel it would be a short time until we
met our first galette
complete.
Ham,
egg, cheese, and a lacey-thin pancake. That’s what it’s all about my friends.
No other pancake - in my opinion - is worth the strife.
If you don’t want to cross the Channel for some decent grub
do what I did last week and nip down to London. I went down for ‘research’ and
a ‘meeting’ to gather a few ideas in order to make Harp Lane (My deli? In
Ludlow? Opening soonish? Ring any bells? I may have mentioned it 8985095834
times before) the best it can possibly be.
Do what I did, handpick a few places in our capital, and
you’ll quickly realise that the Big Smoke has never screamed louder in terms of
gastronomy. Not clever stuff, not expensive flimflammery, just top-notch grub
in warehouses, whorehouses, and outhouses. Making do, but not in that tired and
overdone post-warish way, just very current, cool, and above all – bloody
tasty.
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